I recently had one of my best bucket list experiences while traveling: swimming with whale sharks in La Paz, Baja California!
Not only is snorkeling with whale sharks one of the best things to do in La Paz but it’s also one of the best things I’ve done anywhere! Seeing these gentle giants up close is an absolute dream. At first, I felt slightly overwhelmed by their vast size – and wide open mouths – but soon I became relaxed and didn’t find it a scary experience at all.
After three trips to Baja California, I can safely say that La Paz is my favorite place by far, although I’ve also loved Valle de Guadalupe wine region and Todos Santos (Cabo was so touristy that it wasn’t really my thing, and we really didn’t think Tijuana was worth visiting!).
La Paz is a pleasant city where you can enjoy great coffee and cuisine around your wildlife experiences. And the beaches are out of this world… Especially Ballandra! I also like that La Paz doesn’t feel quite as resorty and touristy as Cabo or Cancun. I generally prefer authentic, adventurous trips wherever possible.
Facts about whale sharks (Rhincodon typus)
- They are sharks, not whales – they are fish with gills that breathe water not air
- They’re the largest fish in the ocean and can grow up to 60 feet (18 meters) – although the average is 40 feet (12m) and weigh up to 47,000 pounds
- They can live up to 100 years old but sadly only 10% make it to adulthood (which is considered 30 years old)
- They are filter feeders that eat plankton and krill – not tourists 😉
- Little is known about whale sharks giving birth – it’s never been witnessed by humans but it’s thought they travel to depths of over 2,000m to give birth to live young (after having internally fertilized their eggs). We don’t know much about their mating process or how long they’re pregnant for either!
- Young whale sharks measure approx 2 feet (60cm) long – they stay in deep waters for the first few months of their lives
- These sharks are sadly endangered – due to threats posed by humans such as illegal fishing and plastic pollution in our oceans.
The La Paz whale sharks
The facts above apply to whale sharks around the world but we’re specifically talking about whale sharks that visit the Pacific Coast (west) of Mexico.
The whale sharks that visit La Paz come on their annual migration, attracted to the Sea of Cortez thanks to its warm, plankton-rich waters. Not only do they feed here, but they also give birth in this safe region (however this is a mysterious topic humans know little about).
It’s thought they come from as far away as the Indian Ocean. Whale sharks then migrate from the Yucatan waters to the Caribbean.
When is whale shark season in La Paz?
The season for swimming with whale sharks in La Paz is October to March (but you may have luck in April) so you have a good few months to snorkel with them.
It’s worth noting that Grey Whale season in La Paz is mid-January to March with February being the peak month. So, if you’re hoping to see both whale sharks and Grey Whales during the same trip, you need to visit between mid-January and March.
This is what I did and it was great to see both during 2 days!
Is seeing whale sharks guaranteed?
No, nothing is guaranteed in nature. But you certainly have a good chance of seeing them. I believe this is because the waters in La Paz Bay are calm and clear so it’s easy for guides to spot wildlife. Also, since they’re here to feed, they’re usually found near the surface.
In contrast, spotting Grey Whales in Magdalena Bay is trickier because of the deeper, choppy waters.
So, while nothing is guaranteed, I would say you have a great chance of seeing them. So go on and book that whale shark snorkeling trip in La Paz… I have a feeling you won’t regret it!
Environmental ethics in La Paz
I felt great about the treatment of wildlife when visiting La Paz.
In my early 20s, I made the mistake of swimming with whale sharks in Oslob, Phillippines, where locals feed the animals to keep them coming every day, subsequently messing up their migration patterns. I knew I wanted to swim with them again but in the right way.
Here in Baja California, it’s done right. When visiting as part of their natural migration route, the whale sharks in La Paz aren’t touched or fed by humans. Boat trips seeking them are monitored by the authorities with restrictions on their speed and distance from the sharks.
It was wonderful knowing that I could see these gentle giants up close at no detriment to them! In fact, when you purchase a ticket for a trip, it usually includes a contribution to environmental agencies.
How does swimming with whale sharks in La Paz work? Only 14 boats are allowed in the bay at one time so companies wait their turn from the authorities. Mostly, they get their time requested but it does mean there’s a slim chance the time slot you’ve booked may need to be amended. So keep an eye on your emails the day before your booked tour!
Given the above, my top tip for seeing whale sharks in Baja California is to give yourself enough time. Don’t schedule a tour for the day before your flight home. If it doesn’t go ahead – which is possible due to bad weather such as high winds – and is rescheduled for the next day, you’ll be disappointed (and may not get your money back depending on the conditions).
What to expect during a whale shark tour in La Paz, Baja
Timings: tours last approximately 2.5 hours; we departed La Paz harbor at 9am and arrived back at 11.40am (the booking confirmation I’d received had said 9am-12pm so it was slightly shorter than this).
The journey to find whale sharks includes a quick stop for the environmental agency to register the boat and, of course, the task of actually finding the sharks! Luckily, we didn’t need to look for too long. I think it being a clear day benefited us because it’s easy to spot large, dark shapes in the water when the sky is clear.
Briefings and equipment: on the way, our guide explained what the tour would entail and what rules to follow when around the whale sharks. We were given wet suits to wear because the water is pretty chilly (although I’d say the adrenaline of jumping in with a 10m shark entirely distracted me from the cold!) and a snorkel and mask.
Taking turns in groups of four: when one had been located, it was time to do what we’d come for: snorkeling with whale sharks in La Paz! The number of people allowed to swim near each shark is limited to protect the animals so, since there were eight of us, we divided into two groups and took turns.
It was so mesmerizing watching them up close. You can see every detail including their unique pattern: grey with white spots. Sometimes they stay still while feeding but other times you have to swim fast to remain alongside them!
Wrapping up: after an hour of taking turns snorkeling with the whale shark, we got back on the boat and headed back to the harbor, taking off our wetsuits en route. The team offered us some snacks and drinks but, given it was only a 2.5-hour tour, I was still full from breakfast.
Getting our photos and videos a few days later: the team at MexPlore took great photos and videos of us individually with the whale sharks and emailed them to us the following day.
All the tours are led by local guides which provides employment opportunities in the region. Tours are bilingual in both English and Spanish.
Is it safe swimming with whale sharks in La Paz?
YES!
I understand why some people might be nervous about swimming with 12m sharks with wide open mouths but once you know the facts, it stops being so scary.
Firstly, whale sharks only eat plankton and krill so they do not want to eat you!!
Secondly, they have a filter in their mouths which means they couldn’t swallow you even by accident.
You’re totally safe swimming with whale sharks (although companies don’t recommend it for those with heart problems / who are heavily pregnant).
However, I will caveat this by saying that, if you’re very anxious about swimming with wild sea creatures, it might be an unnerving experience for you. They do come close with open mouths. They won’t hurt you and you’re in great hands with the professional guides, but it’s for you to assess your comfort zone. After all, you know yourself best!
Including Espiritu Santo and sea lions in the same day
Although swimming with whale sharks in La Paz has been my Baja highlight, spending a day on a boat trip to Espiritu Santo Island was a close second!
This UNESCO-protected island combines the desert and beach – and it’s spectacular! I loved eating ceviche on the beach before going on a hike around the craggy island peppered with cacti. Part of the attraction is the boat ride there where you’ll hopefully spot dolphins and turtles, and have the chance to swim with sea lions.
You can choose to do Espiritu Santo as a separate day trip or combine it with whale shark snorkeling in La Paz. I did it separately on my first trip in June which is when the male sea lions are aggressive so sadly we didn’t get to swim with them.
However, all of whale shark season in La Paz season in La Paz (November to March) coincides with sea lion season (September to May) so trips in these months can include whale sharks, Espiritu Santo, AND swimming with sea lions!
Combo tours last around 6 hours and cost 3,200 pesos ($180). This is a good value considering that, individually, the whale shark tours cost $130 and Espiritu Santo costs $140.
Best whale shark tours in La Paz, Mexico
MexPlore (from La Paz): this is the company I went with and had a blast. It costs 2,400 pesos or $140 USD. Tours (of 9 guests max) are led by a qualified marine biologist so you get a great insight.
Tuna Tuna Tours (from La Paz): also for those staying in La Paz, these tours cost 2,400 pesos. They have 5 stars on TripAdvisor based on over 500 reviews.
Baja Adventure Co: these tours cost $160 as opposed to $140 but seem to have a couple of extras including like use of biodegradable sunscreen on deck.
Baja Desconocida: offering slightly cheaper tours at 1,100 pesos (1,900 for Mexican nationals) also with 5 stars on TripAdvisor! The downside is that they don’t offer photography service. If you’re not bothered about this, it’s a good option on a budget.
Cabo Expeditions: one of the best-rated La Paz whale shark expeditions if you’re based in Cabo. Tickets cost $255.
Explore Baja: this company offers pick-up from Todos Santos which may be of interest if you’re staying there.
Whale shark etiquette
Here’s how to behave when swimming with whale sharks in La Paz. Don’t worry if you forget, the guides will tell you at the start of your tour.
To summarize…
- Never touch them – this just goes without saying! Oils on your hands can damage their skin and destroy their natural sun protection
- Don’t swim directly above, below, behind, or in front of them – try to stay to its side so you don’t get flicked by its tail or too close to its mouth
- Aim to stay 2 meters from the sharks – for general safety (yours and theirs).
You have to do your best with these rules because often the animals don’t observe them! It’s on you to try and gently move position; you’re in their home, after all!
What to pack on a whale shark boat trip
- Reef-safe sunscreen – to keep your skin protected without damaging the ecosystem
- Towel – to dry off on the way home
- Swimsuit – I would recommend arriving with this under your clothes. There’s a changing room at the marina but not on the boat
- An extra layer – in the early mornings, especially in December and January, it’s cold in the mornings and feels even colder on a moving boat. You may also want your extra layer to warm up after being in the cold water
- Your own snorkel and mask (optional) – these are provided but, if you have your own, you may prefer to bring them.
Other places to swim with whale sharks in Mexico
Isla Holbox: this is the other popular place to swim with these beauties. Sadly, I have only visited out of season but I can confirm it’s a fantastic island and there are loads of things to do in Holbox not limited to wildlife experiences. I highly recommend a trip… and it’s even better if it’s combined with seeing whale sharks!
Also not far from Isla Holbox, you can see whale sharks off the coast of Cancun in the same season of mid-May to mid-September.
Other places in the world where you can swim with whale sharks include the Caribbean, the Maldives (very expensive, I bet!), Australia, Indonesia, and the Philippines. But you have to be careful in the latter because tours like the ones in Oslob are notoriously unethical.
What else to do in La Paz, Mexico?
- Spend a day visiting Espiritu Santo island and swimming with sea lions on route
- Relax at Ballandra Beach, and visit other beaches around the peninsular like Tecolote
- Spot marine life-themed statues on the Malecon and cool murals all around town
- Visit museums and galleries like the Whale Museum, the Regional Museum, and the Art Museum
- Eat amazing fish tacos (find the best ones with my La Paz restaurant guide)
- Have the best cinnamon bun of your life at Doce Cuarenta cafe!
Read next: all best things to do in La Paz, Mexico
FAQs
Is it safe to swim with whale sharks? Yes! These plankton-eating sharks are friends, not predators. Given their endangered status, we’re more dangerous to them. Follow the safety advice and you’re perfectly safe.
Is swimming with whale sharks in La Paz suitable for kids? Yes, there are no age restrictions however your child will need to know how to swim and snorkel.
Will you get seasick on the boat? No, during my tour, the seas were calm. I can’t promise this is ALWAYS the case, however tours don’t go ahead in periods of bad weather. But, if you are prone to seasickness, bring your meds.
Where does the tour start from? Tours departing La Paz begin from Marina La Paz (click for the Google pin). Tours departing Cabo will usually pick you up from your accommodation to transfer you to this starting point.
Are there facilities at the harbor? Yes, there’s a spacious bathroom. However, there’s only one so you may be waiting if all the guests on your tour want to use it. There’s also a coffee shop, Baja Beans, beside the harbor.
Do you need to be a good swimmer? Not really because you have a life jacket. But because you need to swim to stay alongside the sharks. You get a better view if you’re a fast swimmer.
Is the water cold in Baja? In October at the start of whale shark season in La Paz, it’s still warm from the summer. By the time I visited in January, it was chilly: in the low 60s. You get a wet suit which helps.
Can you do the tour from Cabo? Yes, tours from Cabo will include the 2-hour drive to La Paz. As you can imagine, they’re more expensive than tours from La Paz.
Thanks for reading!
More Baja blogs:
- Things to do in Todos Santos
- Where to eat in Todos Santos
- Visiting Valle de Guadalupe wine region
- Is Tijuana worth visiting?
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- The best Puerto Vallarta restaurants
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- Where to eat in Sayulita
- Visiting Lo de Marcos, Nayarit
- Everything to see and do in Oaxaca City
- All my Mexico City blogs!
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