One of the most charming places I’ve visited lately is Lo de Marcos, a pretty and peaceful town on the Riviera Nayarit. Although it’s near to popular tourist destinations like Sayulita and Puerto Vallarta, it feels like a different world.
Gone are the crowds and booming bars. Forgotten are the packed beaches where you can barely find a peaceful spot. Endless sandy expanses stretch as far as the eye can see. In the town, elderly locals play dominoes on the street as they have done daily for decades.
This pueblo won’t be everyone’s cup of tea. Those who like beach bars, free-flowing cocktails, and fancy restaurants may be disappointed. And that’s perfect because it leaves the town for those of us who like solitude and charming towns that capture the essence of traditional Mexico.
Where is Lo de Marcos in Mexico?
Lo de Marcos is located along the Nayarit coastline of Banderas Bay, after Punta Mita, Sayulita, and San Pancho (full name, San Francisco) when traveling from Puerto Vallarta. It’s around 11 miles (18km) from Sayulita, (11km), and 38 miles (62km) from PV.
To the south, the next town along is Rincón de Guayabitos, 9 miles (14km) away. It takes around 15 minutes to drive there.
Is Lo de Marcos a pueblo magico?
Surprisingly Lo de Marcos is NOT a pueblo magico! Something I can hardly believe since it’s so idyllic… Way more deserving than busy Sayulita, if you ask me!
For those not yet in the know, pueblo magicos are, in English, ‘magic towns’ designated by the Secretariat of Tourism for their unique culture, history, cuisine, arts, or hospitality. I have been to many now including Bacalar, Isla Holbox, Mazunte, Ajijic, Tequila, Taxco, Cholula, Valle de Bravo, and San Cristobal de las Casas.
Getting to Lo de Marcos
It couldn’t be easier to reach Lo de Marcos. You can drive in 1 hour from Puerto Vallarta airport (along Highway 200) or ride Uber or a local bus. These green and white Compostela buses directly leave the airport, calling at the other Riviera Nayarit towns en route.
From Puerto Vallarta to Lo de Marcos: airport taxis will be expensive so I recommend you exit the airport, turn left, and cross the bridge over the highway. From here, you can call Uber (around 800 pesos) or wait for the local bus. This is the cheapest option by far; tickets cost around 75 pesos for the 1 hour 10 min ride. Look for buses that say ‘Lo de Marcos’ on the front or check with the driver.
From Sayulita: visit the main bus station and buy a ticket at the desk for 42 pesos. Wait until someone calls out ‘Lo de Marcos’ or ask the drivers. The ride takes around 20 minutes and you’ll get off at the side of the highway where the main road into the town starts.
From San Pancho: wait on the side of the highway (where the bus from Sayulita drops) for a bus with Lo de Marcos on the front or ask the driver. Get off a few minutes down the highway at the start of LDM town.
Tip – buses are cash-only and it’s best to have small bills. The drivers may not have change from a 500 note.
Getting around Lo de Marcos
It’s a small place so couldn’t be easier to explore on foot. In fact, you’d miss the charm by driving around. At night, the quiet side streets can feel a little eerie so you can hail a local taxi from the main square. Uber operates in the area but there are rarely drivers waiting in Lo de Marcos, however you can get one in Sayulita to take you here.
If basing in Lo de Marcos and exploring the Nayarit Riviera appeals, having a car can be useful to get off-grid. The best place to hire a car to explore Nayarit is at Puerto Vallarta airport, an hour away. Book on Rentalcars.com.
Things to do in Lo de Marcos, Mexico
This sleepy town isn’t packed with endless attractions, but then you wouldn’t want it to be. I love how chilled and peaceful the town is. Relaxing on the main Lo de Marcos beach and sipping coffee is the ultimate antidote to stress, whether that’s a busy job at home or fast-paced travels around Mexico.
Wander the main square
At the heart of Lo de Marcos is this adorable central square where papel picado flags flutter in the breeze and locals shuffle by in no particular rush. At the center is a pagoda painted vibrant pink, turquoise, and yellow.
With benches dotted around the outskirts where you can sit and watch small-town life pass by, it’s one of the most charming Mexican town squares I’ve seen in a while.
Like almost every town or city in Mexico, there’s a giant set of colorful letters that you can snap photos with.
Given that it’s three words, you might need the 0.5 iPhone setting to get them all in one photo! I had to switch from my camera to my phone here otherwise I’d have had to stand SO far back.
Relax on Lo de Marcos Beach
I was stunned by how quiet the main beach was when I visited, even though it was between Christmas and New Year’s, the busiest time of year for this region. There were a few groups of people – mainly local tourists – beside the main area where there are a few restaurants and umbrellas for hire.
This area certainly isn’t overcrowded but it’s worth walking even further along the beach which I can guarantee you’ll have almost to yourself. This walk is a great thing to do in Lo de Marcos and was a particular highlight for me because I spotted humpback whales from the shore.
As I was walking, I spotted a few splashes from the shore and quickly worked out they were whales. I sat down and used the zoom on my camera to watch them. I even saw one breach and stick its head fully out of the water! Sadly, I didn’t get any blog-worthy photos because they were so far away, but it was a special moment.
Lo de Marcos beach is a nature lover’s paradise with hundreds of pelicans riding the waves. Having joined the LDM expat group on Facebook, I see people often post about unusual birds they see like woodpeckers with striking red crests. Crocodiles are even spotted in the lagoon!
Two other nearby beaches are Los Venados and Las Minitas, north of the main beach and surrounded by hills.
Other activities on & near the beaches
More things to do in Lo de Marcos include horse riding on the beach (best in the early morning) and fishing. Your catches will be fresher than any of the mariscos (seafood) in town… and that’s saying something!
Finally, hiking is popular in the forest and hills around the town. Go early to beat the heat and remember to pack snacks and enough water.
There’s even a golf course a 15-minute drive from Lo de Marcos.
Can you swim at Lo de Marcos?
The waves at the main beach are variable and although I hear you can sometimes swim there, it wasn’t possible during my trip. Generally, the south part of the beach is better for swimming. Nearby El Atracadero beach is good for kayaking and boogie boarding.
Still, the waves are calmer than at San Pancho and some of the beaches in Sayulita (apart from Playa de los Muertos, my fave swimming beach).
Can you surf in Lo de Marcos?
Yes, you can surf in Lo de Marcos. However, the swell isn’t quite as reliable as nearby places like Sayulita main beach and La Lancha beach in Punta Mita. Sometimes you’ll find the sea flat at LDM and, at other times, the waves are hazardously strong.
Are there facilities at Lo de Marcos beach?
Not really. The bathrooms are inside the main restaurant on the beach and can be used for 10 pesos. Then, there are sun loungers and umbrellas that can be hired for a fee. But there are certainly no fancy beach bars here and, to be honest, you wouldn’t want them to be. That would defy the charming vibe of LDM!
Shop at the cute boutiques
There are boutiques selling beautiful items on the main street of Lo de Marcos. Rather than tacky tourist souvenirs, they sell hand-picked artisan items, many made by women in local communities.
They’re similar to the boutiques in Sayulita and San Pancho but I have the feeling the prices decrease slightly with each stop along the coast!
My favorite boutique in Sayulita is Cosmic Milkshake with the tagline ‘a mix of mystery and magic!’.
Shop at Saturday tianguis
The Lo de Marcos tianguis are a selection of artisan stands selling everything from food to arts & crafts set in a relaxed plaza with live music and face painting! Taking place every Saturday and making for a fun thing to do in Lo de Marcos, this is when the town comes alive. Traders and shoppers visit from all over Nayarit.
Find the tianguis pinned here, on the corner of Luis Echevarria and Francisco I. Madero. They’re held from December to the end of March, from 9am-2pm.
Spot the amazing architecture
As if this town could get more charming, there are some beautiful buildings to spy. My favorite is this gorgeous building, part of the Tlaquepaque Restaurant complex. The tiles remind me of Portugal with perhaps some Moorish/Moroccan influence thrown in. Simply beautiful!
Visit the coffee shops
Despite its small size, Lo de Marcos has a solid selection of quality coffee shops. The first place I tried was Water Man Cafe which is more of a restaurant than a coffee shop but still serves excellent coffee and baked goods.
Sadly, they were out of cinnamon rolls when I visited but I saw them baking a fresh batch as I was leaving. They looked divine!
My favorite coffee shop in town is EL Cafe de Lo De Marcos is run by a pair of sisters who serve delicious coffee and baked goods. They don’t do much in the way of food: I saw on their Google pin they do sandwiches but when I asked they were all out, perhaps because it was late in the day. For a snack or light lunch, there are bagels with cream cheese.
Opening times: 7am-2.30pm daily (from 9am on Sundays).
Spot street art
The street art in Lo de Marcos is fantastic. In my experience, the best street art always tells a story. In this coastal town, it’s linked to the incredible marine life found in these parts from jumping humpback whales to artistic representations of octopuses (octopi?) and fish.
The art is all over town. The rainbow fish above is beside Jardin de Ninos kindergarten and the blue fish is on a nearby side street.
The whale and octopus murals above and below are located slightly away from the town center on Cam. a las Minitas, nearby the Google pin for the Mermaid House. If you’re a street art fan, they’re worth finding.
Volunteering in Lo de Marcos, Mexico
Personally, I didn’t have the time to volunteer in Nayarit but I’ve done a deep dive into the topic and learned about the wonderful organizations in this small town. If you’re looking for things to do in Lo de Marcos with an ethical focus, look into the following organizations…
La Casa de Los Ninos: set up as a memorial fund for a family killed in a car accident, this after-school enrichment center offers local children the chance to learn, play games, bake, and more. Volunteer including being a temporary staff volunteer (min 2 weeks), organizing activities and events in Spanish.
El Centro de la Gente: this community center offers plastic recycling, a food bank, and other free services for members of the community.
Turtle releases: between June and November, mother turtles lay their eggs on local beaches. Sadly, the hatchlings are at risk from poachers so local charities move their eggs to safe places until they hatch. When this happens, volunteers are invited to help guide the babies to sea. Follow Campamento Tortugerto to see when releases are happening.
Note – I see some websites still mentioning the Sanctuary at Lo de Marcos, a cat and dog rescue center that has sadly now shut down.
For other volunteer opportunities (here and around the world), I recommend Workaway. Projects are coordinated by local hosts who usually cover your food and accommodation in exchange for working a set amount of hours a day on community projects. I can see several projects listed in LDM.
Restaurants in Lo de Marcos, Nayarit
My top concern in any new destination! The town may be small but there are lots of fantastic restaurants in Lo de Marcos.
La Seafood
For fresh seafood in Lo de Marcos, you can’t beat La Seafood! This modest restaurant with indoor and outdoor seating serves typical Mexican dishes like tuna tostadas, aguachiles, ceviche, and fish tacos, plus sushi. I didn’t try the sushi but I can confirm the Mexican dishes are mouthwateringly delicious.
Opening times: 1pm-2pm Weds-Sun, closed Mon & Tues.
Quinta Bernal
This is one of the highest-rated restaurants in Lo de Marcos known for its elevated cuisine. Quinta Bernal is one of the nicest places to eat if you want a classy, sit-down meal (that’s not too expensive).
The aguachile might be the best ever you try, served in beautiful crockery like everything else on the menu. The charred fish of the day is also worth ordering, as are the pizzas with unusual toppings.
Opening times: 8am-10.30pm, closed Mondays.
Water Man Cafe
For the best brunch in town and unrivaled cinnamon buns, you need to visit Water Man Cafe. The breakfast menu includes all kinds of Mexican classics like enchiladas and molletes as well as global faves like breakfast sandwiches, BLTs, omelets, and smoked salmon avo toast.
There’s an outside patio to enjoy the sunshine.
Opening times: 8am-3pm daily, closed Tuesdays.
La Tomatina
This beachside restaurant and bar is known for its grilled meat and seafood alongside salads, tacos, and pizzas with numerous toppings including boujee ones like blue cheese. The cocktails are great, too, so it’s an easy place to spend an afternoon.
La Tomatina is quite far down the main beach and best accessed by road (ideally by car as it’s a bit of a walk from town).
Opening times: 2-9pm, closed Mondays.
Mexicolate
Mexicolate is an excellent cafe with branches in Sayulita (read more in my Sayulita restaurant guide), San Pancho, and Lo de Marcos. Everything they serve is chocolate-based from the smoothies to breakfast bowls, truffles, brownies, and agua frescas. It’s not sicky sweet though since everything is made with quality cacao, the way the Aztecs would have enjoyed it.
Apapacho
Veggies wondering where to eat in Lo de Marcos need look no further than Apapacho with a lovely courtyard and fantastic reviews. They specialize in vegetarian food including bao buns, pad Thai, hummus, homemade pasta, arancini, curries, and authentic Mexican faves like sopes topped with fresh veggies and cheese. The cocktails are fab!
Opening times: 5pm-midnight, closed Tues & Weds.
Things to know for visiting Lo de Marcos
ATMS in Lo de Marcos: there are a few ATMs in town, the most reliable being the one by the OXXO where the town joins the highway. But it’s best to bring enough money for your trip incase you find ATMs out of cash. Places are starting to take card but you can’t guarantee it.
Sadly, the nearest bank (as opposed to private ATMs charging around 110 pesos in fees) is in Puerto Vallarta. Although there are ATMs in Sayulita, San Pancho, and here, there are no banks which makes withdrawing money expensive.
So I suggest you withdraw cash in PV if possible. There are ATMs in the airport. Generally, for foreign bankcards, I find Citibanamex charge the lowest fees (30 pesos) then Banorte (45 pesos), then HSBC and Santander charge the most.
Lo de Marcos history – this fishing village has been inhabited by local people for centuries, but the town you see now was built by the Spanish. In the last 5-10 years, it’s started to become popular with tourists, especially those who think Sayulita and San Pancho have become too crowded with foreigners.
Lo de Marcos crime: in case you’re wondering ‘is Lo de Marcos safe?’ then I can tell you the answer is yes! This is a sleepy, idyllic town without any crime. You can relax here without worrying about being unsafe.
The only thing I’d say as a solo female traveler is that some of the streets feel a little empty and eerie at night, but that’s not a safety concern specifically. Stay somewhere central so you don’t have to walk too far at night.
What’s the best time of year to visit Lo de Marcos? The peak season is November-March when the weather is pleasant and not too hot or humid. In this dry season, there are fewer mosquitos which means less chance of catching dengue. December to March is when the fun tianguis markets are on so I’d recommend visiting then!
If you need more persuading, just know that the regular population of Lo de Marcos is around 2,100 people but this DOUBLES in the season mentioned above due to Canadian and American ‘snowbirds’ basing in town.
Best places to visit near Lo de Marcos
Puerto Vallarta: no two places could be more different than LDM and PV! The latter is a cosmopolitan city known for nightlife and the LGBT scene. Although it’s not off the beaten track like Lo de Marcos, it’s worth visiting because there’s loads to do in Puerto Vallarta including getting into nature by hiking from Boca de Tomatlan to Paraiso Cascada. There are also great restaurants in PV!
Sayulita: what was once a hippie surf town is now a busy tourist spot. Many will say it’s lost its charm and I am inclined to agree… But the quality surf is suitable for beginners, and there’s fantastic food in Sayulita due to tourist demand. In particular, the brunch and coffee scene is fantastic. And you can’t miss Mary’s fish tacos!
Read next: the best things to do in Sayulita, Mexico
San Pancho: halfway between LDM and Sayulita is another small town also known for surfing (but suited to more advanced surfers), cute cafes, and shopping in the form of boutiques and market stands selling handcrafted jewelry. The community center library and cafe (where you can borrow and return books for free) Entreamigos, is also worth a visit.
Thanks for reading!
Read more Mexico blog posts:
